Folks:
I have a bit more time now, though still not much. We are still in Bethlehem, having spent last night with families. Most went to Christian homes, as Bethlehem is still mainly a Christian community, but 8 of us were in a Muslim refugee camp. I know that sounds like we were sleeping in tents, but these people have been refugees inside their own country for 60 years, so camps here have regular houses in them, depending on the economic level of the people who live there. I spent most of the evening in the home of a Muslim scholar, a very upright and kind man, and his wife. At night his neighbor came over, and two of us went home with her. She and her husband own a book store and live very comfortably. She was hysterical, and though she didn't speak a lot of English, we laughed a lot. The scary thing was that she just turned the same age as me last week, but she has eight kids! Her eldest is 28. I cannot begin to tell you how strange that was, as she gives the impression of being quite the elder. I guess that makes me really old!
I've learned a little bit of Arabic--Peace be with you, Good morning, thank you, and all sorts of food words. Speaking of food, well, I don't know what to say except that my clothes really hardly fit anymore. Middle Eastern hospitality is legendary, and the problem is that everywhere we go, we are received as honored guests. That means no small meals, ever! Hummus, vegetables of every sort, falafel, tabbouleh, eggplant dishes, olives, olive oil and dipping spices, and many other kinds of dips and sauces, all in little plates to eat family style with fresh pita (not the terrible stuff we buy in the store). And THEN, they usually bring out some sort of meat. And then dessert or fruit. It's really over the top. I cannot imagine the diet I'm going to have to go on when I get home.
We attended worship this morning at an evangelical/pentecostal type church. It wasn't what you might think from the name, really more a mainline Protestant kind of place. The sermon was quite good--the speaker and the pastor both attended Bethlehem Bible College, which is supported by the UMC. They get very good, solid theological training there, and I certainly heard proof of that this morning. There were lots and lots of little kids, a more contemporary service, and I wish you could hear the last song they sang--a very Arabic sounding song, and the place just lit up with the music.
This afternoon we will walk down the hill to see the Church of the Nativity and check out some of the town. The main attraction for us (not in a good kind of way) has been the wall around the town, enormous. In some places it goes down the middle of the road, in one place cutting a family's home off from the store they owned across the street. In another family, it went between the homes of parents and son. It truly is an amazing sight, with the most artistic, creative graffiti you can imagine. Tomorrow we will have a 'tour' of the wall, so I'll be the real expert then.
I guess what I want to say before I close is that I cannot believe how much hope there is in this land. There is horrible struggle and pain, daily humiliation and fear. But there is also the rock-solid certainty that this will not last forever. The desire of the Palestinians and Israelis whom I have met to live together in peace is very strong. They are heartened by our presence and uplifted in knowing that we are hearing their stories and will take them home with us. They tell us over and over not to be pro-Palestinian or pro-Israeli, but pro-peace. There is a growing sense that no amount of violence will solve this problem, and as people of faith, different faiths, they trust that the will of God here is peace. They also trust that the will of God cannot be denied forever. There is too much else to tell, but I will close for now.
Much love to you all. Love,Laura
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